The never ending days of Lent every year is synonymous with Kanjiyum – payarum ( Rice gruel with green gram curry ) in every Christian Malayali family. Forty days of meatless existence is a miracle in itself which could never be possible to the hard working Malayali ( pun ) without the deadly combination of Kanjiyum – payrum ( pronounce : khanni-um pa-yar-um ).
Even though Christian law demands fast and abstinence during Lent, the former is taken for granted and abstinence from meat strictly followed. No issues as long as kanjiyum – payarum all three times a day. This has been staple here in Kerala from time not known, its avatar changed over the years to suit the needs of the diverse class that we are . Why, even the kallu/toddy shops have it in their menu.
Kanji is made with rice unique to south-India known as puzhakal-ari or red boiled rice. Green gram curry or Cheru-payaru thoran has its own style across regions and is a tasty dish supplementing the starchy gruel. Kanjiyum-payarum is usually enjoyed with pappadam, pickle and chammanthi/chutney.
Rice gruel - Kanji
Very simple yet delicious this light porridge is as easy as cooking rice. Trick lies in using at least six cups of water for every glass of red rice. Once cooked serve without draining the excess liquid. Green gram curry/ cheru-payaru thoran is the single best complement to the gruel and is just as easy. To the cooked gram a concoction of coconut, garlic, shallots, green-chilli and pepper are added which is then seasoned with mustard and curry-leaf in coconut oil.
Cheru-payaru thoran aka green gram curry
Memories of kanjiyum-payarum in my place in Kerala is as vivid as ever. Gruel is made the traditinal way, not in pressure cookers but in large mud pots placed on three stones using an open fire in a section of the kitchen called the “chaarth”. Firewood is aplenty and a free source of fuel which gives every dish that extra kick ( taste ). One could witness a festival meal once the food is served with the continuous slurps from the entire family.
The end to the gruel story is always a long burp, just the right indication of a square meal.