Among the many exciting experiences that Kerala has to offer, none is more unique than kalaripayattu. This ancient discipline- a thrilling mix of martial arts, spirituality, religion, philosophy and aesthetics- reflects the vibrantly diverse phenomenon that is Kerala.
Unlike many art forms and schools, kalari was and is open to all- men and women. At a time in India when caste and gender dictated one’s life, surprisingly kalari accepted everyone, across gender, caste and communal lines. kalari was way ahead of its time and yet amazingly, one can observe sacred rites and rituals as old as the technique itself even now.
Origin
Many regard Kalari as one of the oldest forms of a ‘fighting system’. Not surprisingly, Parasurama, the legendary warrior sage who is credited with the very creation of Kerala, when he threw his battleaxe into the ocean, is said to be the first gurukkal, or kalari teacher. He is said to have founded 42 kalaris and instructed the first 21 gurukkal or asans. It is also said that Bodhidharma, an Indian monk, introduced an ancient form of Indian martial arts, believed to be kalaripayattu, to the Shaolin monks in China around the 4th century AD.
History
Considered the oldest existing martial art form, kalaripayattu evolved from a traditional discipline, into a more popular, established fighting activity around 9th century. This stemmed from a dire requirement for trained warriors by bickering kings and chieftains involved in petty power struggles. An intricate value-system with a strict moral code was woven into the discipline. But in some ways, it also became a mercenary skill, called ankam, where warriors used to display their talent for rewards and at times, settle quarrels between nobles.
Folk ballads or vadakkan pattukal
The heroism of the local warriors was spread far and wide through local ballads called vadakkan pattukal. In Northern Kerala, these ballads were an important part of oral history. Truth and tale intertwined seamlessly to create a past where larger-than-life heroes became part of everyday routine. Aromal Chekavar, Thacholi Othenaan and Unni Aarcha were legendary warriors of North Kerala whose valiant deeds as kalari warriors live on today as part of history through folklores, songs and myths.
Lokanarkkavu Temple
Religion and spiritualism is an indispensable part of kalaripayattu. Lokanarkkavu temple, situated 5 kilometers from Vadakara in North Malabar, is steeped in kalari folklore. Legend has it that Othenaan used to worship at this 1500 year-old temple daily. Even today, the surroundings and the temple pond reverberate with the echoes of these heroic ballads. During mandala ulsavam, the annual festival, which falls between the months of November- December, thacholikkali or poorakkali, a traditional dance form resembling kalaripayattu, is performed here to invoke the blessing of Durga and Othenaan by kalaripayattu students.
payattu means combat and kalari means arena, which is an enclosed area of specified measurements built according to vaastu sastra, with the entrance facing east. An area for worship is an essential part of the kalari. In the event that a kalari was closed down, it became a temple for the presiding deity. At the kalari, one or more deities are worshipped on the puttara, a 7-tiered structure, in the south-west corner of the arena, along with the gurukkal. Lamps and flowers are used to adorn the puttara. The weapons lining the walls of the puttara silently await their turn. The practitioner follows a strict regimen of exercise, diet and spiritualism.
The art of kalari
There are two main styles of kalari- vadakkan or Northern, which has elaborate, graceful body movements, as opposed to the economical but powerful body movements of thekkan or the Southern form. tulunadan and kadathanadan are examples of Northern style. The Southern style is attributed to Agasthya muni and is said to use sidhavaidyam instead of Ayurveda, which is more popular in the North. Then there is a third form, which is a mix of the meipayattu exercise from the North with the bare-handed techniques of the South.
The technique
The students start young, usually around the age of 7. They are prepared for rigorous physical training and are taught 18 basic adavu or moves- stretching, balancing and flexibility exercises, different body postures (vativu), feet movements (chuvadu) and jumps, massages and other medical treatments- which help in controlling the flow of energy in the body and the mind. Concentration, confidence, courage and values like honor and valor are instilled in them from a young age.
At the kalari one can watch the students go through a series of defensive and offensive moves- strikes, kicks, grappling and also other evasive techniques. Training is classified into four main sections – meithari, kolthari, ankathari and verumkai.
With meithari exercises, the body gains balance and flexibility. The students crouch, jump high, kick, leap; they move their body to the gurukkal’s terse instructions, mimicking animal postures. After successful completion, the student goes on to kolthari, fighting with sticks and wooden staff.
Then comes the real test; the student gets trained in a variety of weapons called angathari: daggers, spears, short sword called churika, long sword called val and urumi, or flexible sword. It takes time and years of practice to be good at the art. The weapon sequence is a real treat to watch- the shrill clang of metal against metal, sharp, indrawn breaths, the thud of the feet hitting the red mud; the constant flow of brisk commands, bodies glistening with oil and sweat- a beautifully choreographed dance.
One can understand that the philosophy behind kalaripayattu is not fighting or winning. The student gets to learn the art of bare-hand fighting only after he or she masters all the weapons. So the fine art of defending oneself without the help of the trusted weapons is considered the most advanced skill: one that is not easily learned or handed down either. verumkai teaches the student how to use pressure points or marmas, a dangerous technique and hence taught only to the most trusted and promising students.
Kalari/ Marma Chikilsa
Kalaripayattu is based on training the mind and body together. kalarichikilsa or the practice of kalari in medical treatment has its roots in Ayurveda and sidhavaidyam systems, traditionally practiced in South India. According to this science, there are 107 marmas, or pressure points in the body. Ayurvedic medicines and oil massages are used for treating any injury to any of the marma. Apart from flexibility, agility and suppleness, the massages also help to attain a sharper mind, better ability to focus, confidence and composure.
Revival
In many places in Kerala, especially North Kerala, kalaripayattu is going through a vigorous revival. Now learned for its traditional values and fitness quotient, and more as a performing art than a fighting technique, the art form is gaining popularity all over Kerala. It is a stimulating, thrilling and aesthetic experience for the senses- a heady mix of supple movements and brisk action- guaranteed to leave the viewer enthralled.