Even though Christian law demands fast and abstinence during Lent, the former is taken for granted and abstinence from meat strictly followed. No issues as long as kanjiyum – payarum all three times a day. This has been staple here in Kerala from time not known, its avatar changed over the years to suit the needs of the diverse class that we are . Why, even the kallu/toddy shops have it in their menu.

Kanji is made with rice unique to south-India known as puzhakal-ari or red boiled rice. Green gram curry or Cheru-payaru thoran has its own style across regions and is a tasty dish supplementing the starchy gruel. Kanjiyum-payarum is usually enjoyed with pappadam, pickle and chammanthi/chutney.

Rice gruel - Kanji

Very simple yet delicious this light porridge is as easy as cooking rice. Trick lies in using at least six cups of water for every glass of red rice. Once cooked serve without draining the excess liquid. Green gram curry/ cheru-payaru thoran is the single best complement to the gruel and is just as easy. To the cooked gram a concoction of coconut, garlic, shallots, green-chilli and pepper are added which is then seasoned with mustard and curry-leaf in coconut oil.

Cheru-payaru thoran aka green gram curry

Memories of kanjiyum-payarum in my place in Kerala is as vivid as ever. Gruel is made the traditinal way, not in pressure cookers but in large mud pots placed on three stones using an open fire in a section of the kitchen called the “chaarth”. Firewood is aplenty and a free source of fuel which gives every dish that extra kick ( taste ). One could witness a festival meal once the food is served with the continuous slurps from the entire family.

The end to the gruel story is always a long burp, just the right indication of a square meal.

By: Ashwin Thomas Polachirackal

After visiting my Grandparents, we took a train from Kochi and went to Trivandrum to visit my Uncle and cousins. I love the chook-book-chook-book sound of the train. We crossed many rivers on bridges on the way. In Trivandrum we visited an old temple that was build by the King a long long time ago, then we went to Kovalam and climbed the light house all the way to the top. We played on a small beach with black sand. My uncle told me the black color was because of the minerals Ilmenite and Monazite. I’d never seen black sand before! We ate the awesomest food like squid because my uncle is a very cool Chef. I also played Ping Pong with my cousins and played with their pet Turtle named Picasso.

Kovalam - View from top of lighthouse

My grandmother, uncle, aunt and cousins live in Kuttanad, also called the rice bowl of Kerala. They have many pets; dogs, cats, goats, ducks, rabbits, turkeys, pigeons and many kinds of fish, so I love visiting and feeding them. I also played cricket and football with my cousins. When we’re thirsty we drink tender coconut water.

Kovalam

One sunny day, we made fishing rods using bamboo sticks and walked thru small paths in between rice farms got on a wooden boat called a Vallom and went fishing. We caught a few small fish! It was so thrilling!

Another day we went to a very big river on a small motor boat and visited an old church that is more than 400 years old. We also went swimming in the river and had a lot of fun!

We also went to a really cool ride park called Wonder La in Kochi. I had a great time there and wanted to go again, but could not as I had to return to USA to go back to school

I can’t wait for our next trip to Kerala!

Wonder La park in Kochi

Wildlife at a national park in Kerala.

On Earth Day, pledge three small favors for mother Earth when you travel. Water is a precious natural resource. These three small steps can make a big difference is conserving at home or when you travel.

1) Don’t keep taps running when brushing.
2) Don’t keep showers running when bathing. Get wet, turn off shower, soap up, then turn shower back on to rinse.
3) Reuse towels and sheets. Hotels will change your towels and sheets every day if don’t tell them that you’d like to reuse them.

Wildlife in Wyanad, Kerala.

Remember days of dis-pleasure when menacing gnats (two winged – long proboscis – blood sucking – female mosquito) caused blisters all over my bare arms and legs. The ground under these huge ‘Xmas’ like trees being moist makes it haven for these irritants.

A tablespoon of nutmeg powder with honey has been reason too often for my stomach getting back to normal. A perfect remedy for all digestive disorders, nutmeg has been in Kerala from very early times. No wonder they (Europeans) kept coming back.

Jaathi-maram (nutmeg tree) as is commonly called in Kerala, bear fruits (pods) which ripen to split open and the brown seed surrounded by the red aril falls to the ground after a few days. The former known as Jaathikkai (nutmeg) and the latter, Jaathi-pathiri (mace) in Malayalam.

The ones that fall are collected and the seeds are separated from the aril. Both kept for drying directly in Kerala’s hot sun. Mace is dried for a fewer days. The seeds are dried till they rattle in their shell. Few, stored for family use, the rest packed off by wholesale dealers. The pods are rarely used, occasionally fed to livestock and sometimes pickled.

Originated in the Maluku islands in Indonesia, it spread far and wide, thanks to greed and colonialism by the early Europeans. Presently, Indonesia is the No1 producer with 70% share followed by Grenada (island country in the Caribbean) with almost the rest.

Nutmeg aka Jaathikkai .

Nutmeg and mace are a hit with the Europeans even today. Both, generously used in soups, mashed potatoes, custard and culinary. Indians not fond as much, consume these unknowingly in garam-masala, chat powder &c. Extensively used in sweets and savories as well.

Nutmeg and mace are useful in the treatment of rheumatism, insomnia, digestive dis-orders and the like. Its oil is extracted and used as raw-material in the manufacture of perfumes as well. Also used in a range of concoctions in Kerala’s own Ayurveda.

‘Spice within Spice’ would be an apt name making it one of a kind to be praised and remembered.

Experienced and Written by: Ashwin Thomas Polachirackal

Select a right destination:- An ideal romantic getaway will include an option to be left alone with your partner. Try destinations that are far away from the mad crowd where the only person you need to be considered about is your partner. Hill destinations, within them  remote areas – yet able to provide comforts. Munnar and Peerumed might be just right. Houseboats in the backwaters .Only in Kerala will  you be spoiled with so much choice.

Packing Checklist for the trip:-

• Pack each outfit and its accessories in large reusable plastic bags.
• Include more lingerie and sleep wear than usual.
• Pack a few romantic touches (sachets, scented travel candles, his favorite candy bar, or a music player with your favorite songs.
• Pack shoes in the bottom and fill them with small items.
• Roll daytime clothes when you can.  Pack dressy outfits in reusable plastic bags.
  from the dry cleaner to keep them wrinkle free.
• Layer everything. Put crushable items, such as workout clothes, on the
  bottom and the most fragile ones on top.
• Fold carefully. Turn jacket sleeves inside out.  Place sweaters, socks, tee shirts and smaller items between shoes.
• Pack all liquids in plastic bags.  Put travel sized cosmetics in plastic bags in your carry on.
• Pack sunglasses, medicines, your bathing suit and cover up and one change of clothes in your carry on. Take a few precautions to make your honeymoon happier and hassle free.
• Leave a copy of your itinerary, including hotel telephone numbers and e-mail addresses with a family member or friend. Add your name and address and place another copy in your suitcase.
• Consider purchasing trip insurance to cover lost baggage, weather delays, cancellations or other unforeseen circumstances.
• If you bags are black, mark them with a colored ribbon, or a distinctive luggage tag.  The name on the tag should match the name on your airline ticket.
• Carry a collapsible bag .
• Never pack jewelry, medicines or other valuables in your suitcase.  Put them in your carry on.
• Sun hat, scarves or bandannas
• Beach shoes or flip flops
• Sarongs, cover ups, beach bag and sun glasses
• Flat shoes for walking, dressy shoes for evenings
• Jeans and plain shirts or t shirts for city excursions
• Little black dress for dinners and nights out
• Accessories – scarves, belts and costume jewellery
• Electrical equipment – straighteners, tongs, hair-dryers, Lady Shave, adapters and chargers
• Holiday documentation, passports, insurance documents, travel itinerary.
• Medical supplies and contraception
• Digital camera, camcorder, mobile phone, batteries and chargers.
• Cosmetics and toiletries

Some essentials that you might want to consider packing:-

• A collapsible bag which doubles as a beach bag and a carry on for souvenirs collected along the way
• Mini First Aid kit.
• Reading material.
• A small alarm clock.
• Inflatable pillows for long flights.
• Bathing suits and workout clothes.
• Travelers checks, credit cards and ATM cards
• Prescriptions.
• Pashmina or a sweater
• Small umbrella.

Medicines:- Take along medicines for normal discomforts – that you are familiar with. New destinations  might cause skin irritation and allergy – take along a skin care kit.

Food:-  Go for familiar food – keep the experimentation for later. Don’t let surprises spoil your day , eat plenty of greens and fruits. Drink plenty of water – we may forget in the excitement. The trade off is feel good and look good.

Local people:- Respect the locals, leave them to themselves. Pick up bits of information on their culture, be friendly. Photograph yourself with them with their permission.

Nature Bargains:- Soak up the photo frame views, spend time in the open, enjoy the the birds and the breeze. We may not have access to these for quite some time. This is the cake – have it with the icing.

Package Bargains :- Kerala is very negotiable. Search around and strike a bargain with your tour provider. This will be time well spent.

Responsible Travel Tips:

1. Walk a lot. – Get lost!
2. Eat lightly – Eat anything you want, but don’t eat a lot.
3. Find space to relax – Don’t try to do too much.
4. Be present – Don’t be on your phone or laptop all the time.
5. Smile at people – Talk to the locals.

Pictures featured in the article were taken at Camp Noel Resort, Munnar.

Romantic Honeymoon Dinner at Camp Noel Resort, Munnar.

For a birder, raptors or birds of prey are one of the most difficult birds to identify.  Among those magnificent and powerful carnivores, the Crested Serpent Eagle stands out. You are sure not to mistake it for any other bird once you’ve seen it.  As its name suggests, it has got a small crest on the head. But, this crest is not always visible.  The bird has got a loud piercing voice which is quite obvious.  And, it usually make the call while it is airborne.

The call of the Crested Serpent Eagle reverberates  almost all the forests in Kerala. Infact, this is the dominant raptor here. These birds have a special affinity towards snakes. Besides snakes, they can satisfy their belly with small lizards, birds etc..

Trekking through the forests of Kerala will definitely cross your paths with this predator. But, photographing this bird is a difficult task if you are on foot. They can detect minute disturbances in the forest ground and will take off immediately on detecting your presence.  Still I remember the day I missed a good chance to capture the beauty of this bird in my camera. Myself along with the friends were wandering through some tea estates near Valpprai (Kerala – Tamilnadu border) and I spotted a large bird about 300m from us. And, it was not difficult to identify it as the Crested Serpent Eagle. Equipped with my camera, I wriggled through the 1m high tea plants. Decided to stoop as much as possible to avoid detection by the bird. Covered around half of the distance and I peeped through the bushes to see the bird. The bird was still there. Without making any noice, popped the lense above the tea plants and got ready for the shot. While doing so, my leg accidently hit on a small twig which made a feeble crackling sound. And, it was enough to make the hunter alert and with a swift movement took to wings leaving me disappointed. At the same time, I could watch the beautiful patterns on its outstretched wings.

The Crested Serpant Eagle in Flight

Thereafter, I got some excellent chances to photograph the bird while on the vehicle. And the best one was at Bandipur when a bird did not bother to move at all for about 10 minutes.  A trip to the forest is not complete without the sighting of this majestic bird.

Kerala Toddy Tapper

Appam’s origin is from either of the three separate Indian Jewish communities residing in Cochin, Mumbai & Calcutta. It is most popular in the state of Kerala with the Malabari Christian community or the ‘Nasranis’. The people in Kerala are generally very fond of Appam and over the years from this basic plain appam, a number of variations have been made The appam is equally at home on the peasants plate or at the fanciest table .

Kerala Appam and AppaChatti

Appams are made in a cast iron concave Appachatti and this is which gives the outer crispness and inner fluffiness.  However now Teflon ware is available and delivers a very good product. The batter is made up of raw rice ground with a little water, or coconut milk to which is added mashed cooked rice, a teaspoon of baker’s yeast, a small pinch of salt and a spoonful of sugar. The batter is allowed to ferment for five hours made thin with coconut milk, and is ready for the pan.

Making Kerala Appam

Recipe

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups raw rice

1 coconut
2 tsp sugar
1/3 cup Rice
1/2 tsp dry yeast
oil to apply on the pan
salt to taste

Method

1. Wash and soak the rice for 6 hours. Drain.
2. Grate the coconut, add 2 cups of water and extract coconut milk. Strain.
3. Grind the raw rice and a little cooked rice in some coconut milk. Remove from the processor and add the sugar and salt.
4. Mix the yeast with a little warm water, add to the rice paste and mix very well. The batter should be dropping consistency.
5. Cover and keep for 5 to 6 hours.
6. Just 1 hour before cooking add in the thick coconut milk to the batter.
7.  Preheat the pan .Pour 1 big spoonful of the batter into a concave cast iron tava (appachatti). Slowly swirl the batter in the appachatti so that a thin layer forms on the side and the middle remains thick. You should hear a satisfying sizzling sound, cover with lid and cook for 1 minute. The middle part will be fluffy. The sides will be thin and crisp.
8. When the edges become golden remove with a spatula.

Palappam - Ready to Enjoy!

CHEF TIPS

1. Ensure that the batter is thin by adding more coconut milk or water if the lace does not form.
2. Ensure a warm place to keep the batter for 5 hours to allow the yeast to ferment (24°C-27°C).
3. Stir the batter well before use.

By: Chef Ivan.

A Cannon at St. Angelos Fort, Kannur.

St. Angelo’s Fort or locally Kannur kota is a massive laterite structure built on a cliff protruding into the Arabian sea by the first Portuguese Viceroy to India, Don Francesco de Almeida with support and help from the Kolathiri Rajas in 1505 AD. It was used to garrison navy troops and their equipments and helped to ship-off traded goods. As time passed the Dutch and the English took possession making it one of the most important military stations on the west coast.

Ruins of the fort still remain showcasing strength and power. It is built with laterite/vettu-kallu which is aplenty in the Malabar region and is sought after even today in the construction of homes and commercial establishments. The fort is massive and is almost triangular in shape with a moat that separates it from the mainland, used as a protective mechanism to stall the enemy from direct entry and connects the Arabian sea to the Mapilla bay running east-west.

Payyambalam Beach

Stables, dungeons, cellars and an armory are testimony to the European architectural design . Most of the buildings including chapels and prisons were built by the Portuguese while the stables and ammunition rooms were built by the Dutch. An eerie feeling persists within the fort with the continuous lashing of waves on its walls. The Archaeological Survey of India maintains the fort and treats it as a protected monument of national importance.
The Mapilla bay is beside the fort and is an important fishing harbor. The colored boats anchored at the bay offer a treat to the eye from atop the fort walls.Cannons placed intelligently on the forts’ walls never fail to attract the many visitors to Kannur kota. Considered to be of historical importance, school children are the more frequent visitor.

St. Angelos Fort, Kannur, Kerala.

An epitaph of Sussanna Weyerman, first wife of Dutch Governor Godfried Weyerman can be seen in the fort and recalls the possession and position of the Dutch on the fort. A part of the stables has been converted into an information centre which remains closed for some unknown reason.

St Angelos Fort, Kannur, Kerala.

Arakkal museum, the light-house and the famed Payyambalam beach are all in close proximity to St. Angelos, around 3km from Kannur city.
The Europeans indeed left a relic in the architectural beauty of St. Angelos, one that will go down generations as a treasure-trove in history.

Experienced and Written by: Ashwin Thomas Polachirackal

It is quite easy to distinguish between the male and female of this species. The male will be having the crimson red beak, while the female will be having a black one.

Malabar Parakeet - Male

I’ve been to so many jungles and forests in Kerala and I’ve seen this bird almost everywhere. Except a couple of occasions, they kept a distance from the humans. The most awaited moment came for me when I got a chance to visit Pamba, the base camp for the famous pilgrimage centre Sabarimala. It was off-season, and the Vadasserikkara – Pamba stretch devoid of any din and buzzle was a marvel. I was told that the elephants were usual on the road. And so, was driving with eyes wide open. When we reached Pamba, it was raining buckets. Decided to use the comforts offered by Unni sir’s brother, who was the priest there. Even though it was drizzling, I was having my one eye towards the shrubs nearby. Some tailor birds and robins were showing all kinds of gimmicks and it was real fun. And then, I found some parakeets landing over a shrub with their blue patches shining even in that shadows. Only a photographer knows the dilemma at that time. You are witnessing a dream sight and you cannot take your camera out !!! Couldn’t wait long. Took and umbrella, slowly got near them and took some shots. May be because of my proximity, the birds took off and sat on an isolated shrub. It was just about perfect for my camera.

By: Biju P.B. Read more about the birds of Kerala on Biju’s blog.

Munnar is considered to be one of the most favored romantic/honeymoon destinations in India. Its cool climate, pristine fresh environment and green waved tea carpeted mountains are the perfect setting for a great kerala honeymoon or romantic holiday.

Munnar Tea plantations

Munnar has a lot of stories to tell about itself. The story of the tea plantation dates back to the British era in India, an experimentation on 20 acres of land lead to a successful growth of the tea plantations in Munnar. Today, most parts of Munnar are carpeted with the breath taking greenery of tea plantations. Before, it was home to tribal communities and many species of wild animals.

Top station Munnar

Things to do in and around Munnar:

Eravikulam National Park

About about 15 km from Munnar, this park is famous for the endangered the Nilgiri Tahr. Covering  an area of about 100 sq. km., this park is also home to several species of rare butterflies, animals and birds. A great place for trekking, the park offers  magnificent views of  tea plantations and  the rolling hills caressed by cover of mist. The park becomes a popular destination when the hill slopes here get covered in a carpet of blue, resulting from the flowering of Neelakurinji. It is a plant endemic to this part of the Western Ghats which blooms once in twelve years. The last time it bloomed was in 2006.

Anamudi

In Eravikulam National Park is the Anamudi Peak. This is the highest peak in south India standing at a height of over 2700 m. Treks to the peak are allowed with permission from the Forest and Wildlife authorities at Eravikulam.

Mattupetty

Another place of interest, located about 13 km from Munnar Town, is Mattupetty. Situated at a height of 1700 m above sea level, Mattupetty is known for its storage masonry dam and the beautiful lake, which offers pleasurable boat rides, enabling one to enjoy the surrounding hills and landscape. Mattupetty’s fame is also attributed to the dairy farm run by the Indo-Swiss Livestock Project, where one would come across different high yielding breeds of cows. Mattupetty with its lush green tea plantations, rolling grasslands and the Shola forests is also ideal for trekking and is home to a variety of birds.

Pallivasal

Pallivasal, located at about 3 km from Chithirapuram in Munnar is the venue of the first Hydro-electric project in Kerala. It is a place of immense scenic beauty and is often favoured by visitors as a picnic spot.

Chinnakanal

Near the town of Munnar is Chinnakanal and the waterfalls here, popularly known as Power House Waterfalls, cascade down a steep rock 2000 m above sea level. The spot is enriched with the scenic view of the Western Ghat ranges.

Top Station

Top Station, which is about 32 km from Munnar is at a height of 1700 m above sea level. It is the highest point on the Munnar-Kodaikanal road. Travellers to Munnar make it a point to visit Top Station to enjoy the panoramic view it offers of the neighbouring state of Tamil Nadu. It is one of the spots in Munnar to enjoy the Neelakurinji flowers blooming over a vast area.

Tea Museum

Munnar has a legacy of its own when it comes to the origins and evolution of tea plantations. Taking account of this legacy and to preserve and showcase some of the exquisite and interesting aspects on the genesis and growth of tea plantations in Kerala’s high ranges, a museum exclusively for tea was opened some years ago by Tata Tea in Munnar. This Tea Museum houses curios, photographs and machineries; all of which have a story to tell on the origins and growth of tea plantations in Munnar. The museum is located at the Nallathanni Estate of Tata Tea in Munnar and is worth a visit.

Getting there:

Nearest railway stations: Theni (Tamil Nadu), about 60 km away; Aluva about 110 km away.
Nearest airports: Madurai (Tamil Nadu), about 140 km away; Nedumbassery International Airport, about 125 km away.